Letter from the Ed....

My first real roadtrip was a classic adventure in dodginess. ’ÄòBorrowing’Äô my parents car whilst they were overseas, myself and two mates traversed the country from Brisbane to Arapiles with numerous eventful stopovers along the way. We were 18 and excited to be finally free to travel to our dream destinations. We did it tough, on a dole-driven budget, but we were determined to experience it all. Mass flooding in Nowra, barefoot snow-fights at Buffalo, and finally arriving at Arapiles late one night after driving sleeplessly across the flat plains of central Victoria. I felt the rock before I saw it. Running my hands over the coarse sandstone at Dec Crag, ¬ÝI imagined the soaring orange cliffs I had dreamed about whilst sitting bored at school. The smell of the Pines on a cold night still brings back that initial burst of euphoria I felt that first day I arrived at our Mecca. Spam and Deb-potato for dinner, anyone?

In some ways the climbing was secondary to the adventure of the journey. Yes, we climbed every day on some of the most amazing routes across the county, but this seemed like only a small part of our climbing holiday. I returned home to the heat and humidity of Queensland refreshed, inspired and re-educated about this crazy sport we call climbing. I’Äôd seen ringbolts, dogging and super-strong climbers for the first time. I’Äôd also glimpsed some of the legends of the sport flitting up the shaded gullies of Araps.

Roadtrips are the lifeblood of the climbing community. New crags and new experiences¬Ýare what make climbing such a diverse and intriguing pursuit. Each climbing area in this issue offers a truly unique experience. If you’Äôve ever considered throwing it all in for a trip on the road, then this magazine is sure to inspire you to do just that.

It’Äôs been a big first year so far and we plan to bring more big things in future editions. Look out in late December for our first foray into a big magazine. Yep, you heard it here first folks, CRUX is going to experiment with the A4 format to produce our first Photo Annual! So, not only can you chop it up and paste it all over your bedroom wall, you’Äôll also be able to rack it up along side your collection of the other, more serious mags. So start shooting your best shots of the climbing life and send them our way for this momentus production!

I’Äôd like to extend a personal thanks to Anita Sharma and Monique Forestier, who have helped out with much of the admin with this issue. You go girls! There have been more than fifty contributors to this issue and I’Äôd like to thank every one of you for your enthusiasm and creative brilliance.

Enjoy the show.

Neil Monteith - Ed

Contents

9 Crags to Visit Before You Die.
Australasia’Äôs must-do climbing destinations. Neil Monteith gives the low-down on the best for the roadtripper including the best tight-ass tips.

Southern Styloes
Gerry Narkowicz showcases the best of¬Ý Tasmania’Äôs big pointy bits of rock. Prepare to get wet and terrified.

Martyrdom Training
Jim Truscott goes all the way on a first ascent of one of the biggest walls in Western Australia, Bluff Knoll. Procrastinating for several years they finally go for glory.

Dumb Enough
Steve Baskerville takes us on a ’Äòhow not to’Äô guide to bouldering around North America. Squamish, Heuco, Bishop and HP40 are on the menu.

The Desperados
Aaron Sona goes all fear and loathing whilst travelling with a deranged buddy from Araps to Nowra and onto Frog. Drugs are bad ’Äì ok.

High Drama
John Kazanas recounts a horror accident on Mt Pumori, in Nepal. Four climbers require an epic rescue that pushes everyone to the edge.

He Died With A Nut Tool
Follow the antics of Julian Bell and his mates as they attempt to live for as long as possible on a Kyrgyzstan big-wall. Guns optional.

A First Summers Climbing
Toby Bucek finds his feet on the wet cliffs of Scotland whilst trying to make friends with the rough and tough locals. It’Äôs a whole different world to sunny Arapiles.


Culture

The Dirtbag Files.
Tips on how to spend your unfortunate restdays when on a roadtrip.

CRUX Stuff.
Josh Caple gives us the lowdown on some fun new toys.

Pimp My Woodie.
Nick Sutter shows his simple yet effective home wall in Melbourne.

Loudmouth.
Craig Ingram goes on a dread chopping spree at Arapiles.

Voyeur.
Our biggest photo gallery yet. Your eyes will explode.

Training. Ramon Francis gets all twisted up demonstrating the benefits of Yoga.

Nutrition. Lauren Chandler explains the ins and outs of Glysemic Index.


Articles

Australian Climbing Festival.
Josh Caple gives his personal overview of the April event.

Road Trippn’Äô Cars.
Neil Monteith researches the best new cars that suit an extended holiday.

Real Climbers Cars.
We capture a few classic Oz climbing cars at Arapiles and the Gramps.

History Lesson #4.
Mike Meadows talks cars and crazy adventures of the 60s.

Future Arapiles.
Simon Mentz gives us his proposal for year 2020.

Stalker Beta Magic.
Craig Ingram goes blow for blow on this Adelaide problem.

The Visceral Game.
Marten Blumen and the Pinnacles of Mt Ruapehu.

Psychologic.
Matt Farell’Äôs mountain musings.

Victory Jug.
Jesse Lomas goes for glory and the summit.

Arapiles Day Out.
Cameron O’ÄôNeill spins another great tale.


Crag Profiles

City Rock.
Jono Schmidt introduces us to a new sandstone seacliff in southern NSW.

Hayes Creek.
Matthias Kerkmann takes us to a recent secret sport crag near Darwin.


Stuff

Current Affairs.
We delve into the dirty laundry of the season that was

Heard Mentality.
Quotable quotes aplenty.

Culture Vulture.
Paparazzi for the unwashed and unloved

New Zuland News.
Three roadtrips for three Kiwis

Crossword.
Brad Carmoday confuses and confounds.

Prizes.
We dish out a bunch of great stuff to our contributors