Martyrdom Training Route Descriptions

¬Ý***The Mark of the Lion 105m 18M3
This directissma on the front face of Sophocles Pillar was bolted with the ascent of Peter McKenzie although the route is distinctly different. Full credit must go to Peter for first climbing the pillar as the first 85 metres overhangs by five metres. Peter’Äôs route traverses about the face, dependent upon natural protection. This route goes straight up. Allow 30 minutes to descend the chasm and walk to the start at the end of the bush terrace.

Pitch One 20m 17M3
From the DBB on the blocks at the end of the terrace climb the wall past two BR to the roof. Girdle your loins and blast through the roof crack on etriers and 3-4 pieces of protection (0.5-1.5 friends and medium wires) to gain the wall above. Climb straight up past a BR on the overhanging wall to a BB (with friend backup). A hard man will free the two-metre roof one day.

Pitch Two 40m 18
This is an exposed pitch of spectacular and safe climbing, which goes up and slightly right through continuously overhanging head walls with many horizontal breaks. Stay calm. Initially head up the orange wall past three BR, and then trend right a few metres past two BR to another orange headwall. Climb the headwall with two FB, and then up past another three BR to a DBB on the airy shelf of rock that juts out like a surfboard. Take a photo.

Pitch Three 45m 16
Continue straight up using two BR and normal protection to the top.
M. Rosser, J. Truscott 28 Dec 01

¬Ý

¬Ý*** Sophocles Pillar 110m 18
The route goes up the front face of the plum vertical pillar formation, which starts at the extreme right hand edge of the bush terrace. The pillar juts out from the face and goes to the top. It has many overhangs across its width, which varies from 4-7 metres. At no point does the route stray off the front face of the pillar. The pillar is fairly serious. A few pitons were used, but none left in place, and they are not mandatory. The grade is higher if a party strays off the described line.

Pitch One 18 25m
Minimal protection. Belay on large blocks against the flat vertical 5-metre wall on the front face of the pillar. Up centre of wall to overhang, then a few metres right. Then up overhang. Then back left diagonally and belay on ledge.

Pitch Two 18 25m
Minimal protection. Up say 4 metres, then traverse a few metres left to the edge of the pillars face. Then straight up a few metres and back right to belay on sloping ledge.

Pitch Three 18 25m
Minimal protection. Up and slightly right to underneath large overhang. Then traverse left a few metres, then up and back right above overhang. Then straight up to belay on large ledge.

Pitch Four 14 35m
Straight up short wall then through overhang slightly on left then straight up to top.P. McKenzie, A. Bell 12 Dec 92

Contents

9 Crags to Visit Before You Die.
Australasia’Äôs must-do climbing destinations. Neil Monteith gives the low-down on the best for the roadtripper including the best tight-ass tips.

Southern Styloes
Gerry Narkowicz showcases the best of¬Ý Tasmania’Äôs big pointy bits of rock. Prepare to get wet and terrified.

Martyrdom Training
Jim Truscott goes all the way on a first ascent of one of the biggest walls in Western Australia, Bluff Knoll. Procrastinating for several years they finally go for glory.

Dumb Enough
Steve Baskerville takes us on a ’Äòhow not to’Äô guide to bouldering around North America. Squamish, Heuco, Bishop and HP40 are on the menu.

The Desperados
Aaron Sona goes all fear and loathing whilst travelling with a deranged buddy from Araps to Nowra and onto Frog. Drugs are bad ’Äì ok.

High Drama
John Kazanas recounts a horror accident on Mt Pumori, in Nepal. Four climbers require an epic rescue that pushes everyone to the edge.

He Died With A Nut Tool
Follow the antics of Julian Bell and his mates as they attempt to live for as long as possible on a Kyrgyzstan big-wall. Guns optional.

A First Summers Climbing
Toby Bucek finds his feet on the wet cliffs of Scotland whilst trying to make friends with the rough and tough locals. It’Äôs a whole different world to sunny Arapiles.


Culture

The Dirtbag Files.
Tips on how to spend your unfortunate restdays when on a roadtrip.

CRUX Stuff.
Josh Caple gives us the lowdown on some fun new toys.

Pimp My Woodie.
Nick Sutter shows his simple yet effective home wall in Melbourne.

Loudmouth.
Craig Ingram goes on a dread chopping spree at Arapiles.

Voyeur.
Our biggest photo gallery yet. Your eyes will explode.

Training. Ramon Francis gets all twisted up demonstrating the benefits of Yoga.

Nutrition. Lauren Chandler explains the ins and outs of Glysemic Index.


Articles

Australian Climbing Festival.
Josh Caple gives his personal overview of the April event.

Road Trippn’Äô Cars.
Neil Monteith researches the best new cars that suit an extended holiday.

Real Climbers Cars.
We capture a few classic Oz climbing cars at Arapiles and the Gramps.

History Lesson #4.
Mike Meadows talks cars and crazy adventures of the 60s.

Future Arapiles.
Simon Mentz gives us his proposal for year 2020.

Stalker Beta Magic.
Craig Ingram goes blow for blow on this Adelaide problem.

The Visceral Game.
Marten Blumen and the Pinnacles of Mt Ruapehu.

Psychologic.
Matt Farell’Äôs mountain musings.

Victory Jug.
Jesse Lomas goes for glory and the summit.

Arapiles Day Out.
Cameron O’ÄôNeill spins another great tale.


Crag Profiles

City Rock.
Jono Schmidt introduces us to a new sandstone seacliff in southern NSW.

Hayes Creek.
Matthias Kerkmann takes us to a recent secret sport crag near Darwin.


Stuff

Current Affairs.
We delve into the dirty laundry of the season that was

Heard Mentality.
Quotable quotes aplenty.

Culture Vulture.
Paparazzi for the unwashed and unloved

New Zuland News.
Three roadtrips for three Kiwis

Crossword.
Brad Carmoday confuses and confounds.

Prizes.
We dish out a bunch of great stuff to our contributors